Moorlantern

The beekeeper's year

A colony is not a pet and not a machine. It is a seasonal animal that grows, divides and shrinks on a schedule you can learn. Here is what it is doing each month, which hive to start with, and how to open one without wasting the bees' time.

The colony through the year

Four states, not four months. Read the bees, then the calendar.

A hive spends the year on one job: getting enough bees into the next spring. Comb, honey, swarming, even the drones are in service of that. Open the season you are in.

Wintercluster and hold

Bees do not hibernate. They cluster around the queen and shiver, holding the core near 20 °C while broodless and near 35 °C once she starts laying again at midwinter. Long-lived winter bees, reared in autumn with heavy fat bodies, carry the colony through. Winter is mostly won the previous September.

Springbuild and divide

Lengthening days and fresh pollen push brood rearing into overdrive; a colony can double in a fortnight. It is also the hungriest stretch of the year — more colonies starve in early spring than in midwinter, because stores run out just as brood needs feeding. Drones appear, then queen cells, then the swarm.

Summerpeak and flow

Full strength: tens of thousands of bees, a queen laying up to roughly 2,000 eggs a day, summer workers who live four to six weeks, and a main flow filling the supers. Out of sight, varroa climbs towards its own peak on the season's last brood — which is why mites get counted in late summer, not autumn.

Autumnshrink and store

The queen tapers off, drones are thrown out, and the colony rears the winter bees that must live for months rather than weeks. Those bees are made in late summer and early autumn, so a treatment applied after they are reared protects nobody. Feed while syrup can still be ripened. The planner has the weeks.

Four hives, compared

Pick for the back you have and the beekeepers near you.

The bees are indifferent; the choice is about your back, your budget and what your neighbours run. Borrowing a frame of brood from a mentor only works if their boxes fit yours.

Langstroth

Movable frames in stackable boxes, expanded upward with supers. The global default: frames, foundation and spares are interchangeable and easy to find, and comb can be spun in an extractor and given back. The price is weight — a full deep box can pass 18 kg.

Comb
framed
Lift
heavy
Kit
universal

British National

The UK standard. A square 460 mm footprint and short frames with long lugs make the boxes lighter and squarer to handle than a Langstroth. The trade-off is a brood box that a prolific queen outgrows, which is why “brood and a half” and deeper 14×12 boxes exist.

Comb
framed
Lift
moderate
Kit
common in the UK

Horizontal top-bar

Bees build their own comb downward from bars in one long body — no supers, nothing heavy, everything at waist height. Cheap to build and calm to work. In exchange the comb is fragile in warm weather, harvest means crush-and-strain rather than extraction, and none of it fits anyone else's kit.

Comb
natural, on bars
Lift
none
Kit
non-standard

Warré

A vertical top-bar hive worked by adding small boxes underneath rather than on top, built around minimal intervention. Harder to examine comb by comb. Some jurisdictions require combs that can be lifted out for disease inspection, so check local rules first.

Comb
natural, on bars
Lift
light boxes
Kit
niche

The inspection routine

Ask a question, get an answer, close the lid.

An inspection is a question you put to the colony, not a rummage. Fifteen minutes is plenty, and every extra minute the brood nest is open costs the bees heat and patience. In swarm season, go in every seven days.

  1. Pick the weather. Still, dry, above about 15 °C, middle of the day when the foragers are out.
  2. Light the smoker first. Cool white smoke, packed well enough to still be going in ten minutes.
  3. Two puffs at the entrance. Wait half a minute, then one puff under the crown board as you lift it.
  4. Stand beside or behind the hive, never in the flight path.
  5. Take an outer frame out first. Lean it against the hive; now you can move frames apart instead of rolling bees between them.
  6. Read each frame over the open hive. If the queen falls, she falls home.
  7. Answer the five questions, then rebuild in the order and orientation you found.
  8. Write it down before you walk away. Memory is not a record.
The five questions what you are actually looking for
  • Room. Space for the queen to lay and for nectar to go?
  • Queen. Eggs, young larvae and sealed brood together mean a laying queen. An egg is three days old at most, so you rarely need to find her.
  • Swarming. Charged queen cells on the faces and bottom bars.
  • Health. Solid brood pattern; larvae pearly, C-shaped, glistening. Sunken or perforated cappings and ropy, coffee-coloured larvae suggest foulbrood, notifiable in many countries — close up and call your bee inspector.
  • Stores. Enough sealed honey and pollen to reach the next visit.

Field note

Count mites, do not guess at them. A wash or sugar roll of about 300 bees gives a number; an eyeball estimate gives a feeling. Treat on the number, with a product licensed where you live.

Planner

The seasonal task planner

Pick a cell. Timings assume a temperate Northern-Hemisphere season — shift them to match your own spring.

January

Tight cluster. The queen may restart laying on a few central combs.

  • Heft the back of the hive; light means feed, not hope.
  • Clear the entrance of dead bees, snow or debris.
  • Do not open the hive. Build frames indoors instead.

Colophon

About this primer

This is an orientation, not an authority. It describes Apis mellifera kept in managed hives in a temperate Northern-Hemisphere climate; in the Southern Hemisphere shift the planner six months, and in warmer or colder regions shift it by your own local flow.

Two things this page deliberately will not do: diagnose a sick colony, and tell you which chemical to use. Brood disease and mite treatments are regulated differently in every country. Take suspected foulbrood to your national or regional bee inspector, and take treatment decisions from the product label that is legal where you keep bees.

The best next step is not another web page. Find the beekeeping association nearest you through your national federation and stand at an open hive with someone who has done it for years — an afternoon at their apiary teaches more than a season of reading.

Your records

This primer keeps no notes on its readers; the only thing it looks at is today's date on your own device, so the planner can open on the month you are in. Your inspection records belong in your notebook, next to the smoker fuel.